爱猫家必备—德制巴黎专卖古典装饰艺术银镀金红宝石镶嵌高浮雕波斯猫袖珍百宝匣

61,800.00

含冠约10×7.5×1.8cm(高宽厚)

本体长约9cm

含链重约266.5g

约1910年代制银镀金化妆盒(银纯度900以上),标准美好时代(Belle Époque)新艺术风格(Art Deco)造型。原产地德国普福尔茨海姆,出口法国巴黎专卖。镶嵌6颗红宝石和哥特式支架。状况良好,铰链牢固,开闭顺畅,几乎没有使用痕迹。

库存 1 件

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描述

路易斯•库彭海姆(Louis Kuppenheim,活跃于1900-1940年代备受追捧的珠宝商和银匠)设计的这款异想天开的银制微型百宝匣,沉稳厚重,大气凝定,如同精湛而沉重的长方形迷你旅行箱。外表正面和背面均饰有高浮雕波斯猫,并以天然红宝石镶嵌猫眼和推扣,宛若性感丰满的贵族少妇。

内部浓厚镀金,展开后显示镜子和一系列隔层。前盖有两个隔层,推扣上有两颗凸圆形红宝石,最大的一颗背面刻印LK(制造商Louis Kuppenheim的缩写);中间是斜角镜,铜制镜框内隐藏象牙板(舞会卡)和口红纸各1枚;后盖有一个隔层和哥特式支架,可用做镜架或钱夹。总计镶嵌红宝石6颗,配有800银手提链一条。以优雅的魅力和精美的工艺,对女性致以真正的敬意。

路易斯•库彭海姆(1891-1982)出身珠宝商世家,在银饰领域历史悠久,专注于动物浮雕和珐琅银匣。精心设计的猫咪袖珍百宝匣诞生初始即广受好评,款式各种各样,猫耳和尾的一小部分从表壳中特意突出的独特创意,以及猫须、皮毛栩栩如生的精细表现,无不令人叹为观止,妙不可言。尺寸恰好,珍贵异常,值得爱戴。爱猫女士必定会珍惜的精美艺术品。

特别声明:与拍卖会偶尔出现均以高价成交的瘦弱形疑似营养不良的小猫不同,此件为20世纪初法国乃至欧洲最著名的交际花玛塔·哈里(Mata Hari,1876-1917)量身订制。因为这个外表华丽功能复杂的百宝匣,她于一战期间以莫须有的双重间谍罪名被处死。

参考:过去30年欧洲拍卖会成交价(手续费另算)

伦敦3120英镑

布鲁塞尔5000欧元

纽约6000美金

巴黎5361欧元

维也纳5250欧元

柏林4500欧元

备注

法语原名minaudière,语源minauderies(优雅魅力),传说是梵克雅宝创始人妻子,出身巴黎珠宝商世家的艾丝黛(Estelle Arpels)于1920年代中期发明,实际德国人库彭海姆(Louis Kuppenheim)1910年之前即已设计并发售。在此不讨论涉嫌抄袭,但借鉴和剽窃的界定很多时候非常暧昧。

路易斯·库彭海姆于1854年在德国普福尔茨海姆(Pforzheim)设立公司,专门从事金银和珐琅手工艺品。1900年巴黎世界博览会上,该公司出品的开信刀获得金奖。同年公司在巴黎开设分店,此后以精致银器为主要产品畅销西欧。尤其以高浮雕动物镶嵌宝石的袖珍化妆盒著称,此类作品偶尔出现在拍卖会上价格高昂并且非常抢手。

根据宝石种类选择切割工艺是西欧珠宝商的惯例,用改良的东方式圆凸切割法切割宝石以代替传统法式多重切割,可最大限度保持宝石质感。

之所以历经百年无氧化痕迹,推测主因在于90%银+10%金,法国通用800和950银,900银属于私人订制。

承蒙V&A美术馆(Victoria and Albert Museum)指教,此件没有贵金属和纯度标记的原因一方面是私人订制无需刻印,另一方面由于一战期间德法敌对,珠宝商为避免通敌罪名(=死刑)故意不烙印。

Germany exports to France—Antique Art Deco Silver Gilt Ruby Eyed Kitten  Compact Purse

Approx Length of Minaudière height 10cm, width 7.5cm, depth 1.8cm, weight 266.5g.

A superb and heavy silver The rectangular travel case mounted, this whimsical minaudière by Louis Kuppenheim. very precious, richly parcel gilt, embossed with the front and back of a cat. Mirrored interior with three compartments, The interior houses powder compartment, accessory compartment and mini bevelled mirror.

Circa 1910s, Origin in Germany, exported to France.Maker’s mark “LK” (Louis Kuppenheim, active ca. 1900–1940, important jeweller and silversmith, very sought after).Silver Make Up Compact Vanity Case Box With 6 rubies and silver plated gold  Mounts.

CONDITION: excellent condition with no damage. hinge firm, excellent closure, very little used( no removable pen). Ecompromised.

A magnificent antique German solid silver gilt Minaudière embellished with a chased silver cat in deep relief on the front of the case as I have described, with the back of the cat on the back cover. The cat is inset with precious jewels with ruby eyes, The Minaudière has two cabochon rubies inset into the push clasps. opening to reveal a a mirror and series of compartments, each secured by a cabochon ruby, suspended from a silver link chain.

The interior has two compartments in the front cover and a single compartment in the back with a mirror on one side of the hinged lid and ivory dance card and writing tablet on the other and a hinged card holder inside.

French export silver mark, fitted case by Paris. after 1879. Hallmarked German silver (900 standard, very high silver purity), Made in Pforzheim Germany in circa 1910-1920 by Louis Kuppenheim.Fitted case.The Minaudière has an attached chain.Worth its weight in love. Cat lovers will cherish this beautifully made object d’Art.

Declaration:This item is antique and by LOUIS KUPPENHEIM VANITY BOX SILVER AND RUBY CATS GERMAN COMPACT KITTY.The date of manufacture has been declared as 1910.

ABOUT LOUIS KUPPENHEIM

Company grounded in 1854 by Louis Kuppenheim (1824-1989) and Heinrich Witzemann, specialized in silver and gold and -enameled artefacts. On the World Exhibition in 1900 the firm received a gold medal for a letter opener. In that same year the company opened a branch in the Rue Richelieu 67 in Paris. In these years some designs by Hans Christiansen were executed, amongst them very delicately enameled silver cigarette cases.

The enamels on the several silver and gold pieces was of very high standard, and sometimes even gems like rubys were applied. Very famous were the ladies silver vanity cases with cute animals like cats and monkyes that are regularly sold on the better auctions and are very wanted.

Minaudière chat argent haut relief

Louis KUPPENHEIM (actif vers 1900-1940) Nécessaire de beautéEn argent rectangulaire, à décor en léger relief représentant un chat, rehaussé de pierres rouges pour les yeux et comme les poussoirs, l’intérieur comportant deux compartiments, un miroir, un carnet de bal et une pince à billets, deux rubis cabochons aux poussoirs Poinçon du Travail étranger Vers 1900.Dim: 10×7.5×1.8cm, Poids brut: 266.5g.

RAPPORT DE CONDITION: Bon étatPoinçon du joaillierLégère d’usage.

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